Also, she has recommendations for some new favorites in New York. Jenn Harris centers her column this week on the amazing-sounding quesadillas fritas from El Capitalino MX in Inglewood. Among them: Mini Kabob, I Love Micheladas from the owners of Guelaguetza, Katsu Sando, Amboy Quality Burgers, Wanderlust Creamery and Mad Lab Coffee. Stephanie also details the opening of Topanga Social food hall in Canoga Park. ![]() Who owns the phrase “Taco Tuesday”? Stephanie also reported on Taco Bell’s campaign to cancel federal trademarks for the phrase. The allegations made by Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian dominated food-world news this week. “A chef of popular Los Angeles restaurant Horses accused her husband and business partner of killing the family’s cats in a divorce filing in which she also asked for a domestic violence restraining order,” begins the piece published this week by Noah Goldberg and Stephanie Breijo. Julie Wolfson was also recently in Tokyo, and she wrote about a mind-bending coffee omakase. When I brood over the future of finer dining in Los Angeles, how it might taste and how the experience might feel, Kim has inched up to top of mind. If you went straight away, as did one of my friends who murmured polite-ish things about an earlier meal when she saw my piece, you might consider returning. A team member, one of my favorite food professionals in the city, joined this place after the first rounds of opening reports, and I’m excited to write about their return to the dining room. The subject of next week’s review opened this winter. ![]() The when of appraising a place is more subjective than ever, but there’s a case-by-case logic behind it. The privilege of having these appraisals as my primary job, and the way they might inform the annual 101 Best Restaurants guide. The more sharply focused lens that comes with multiple visits. So then what can I bring to the conversation? The widest, deepest angles of consideration, I hope. Local food publications covered its arrival widely my colleagues Stephanie Breijo and Jenn Harris reported the opening and shared first thoughts, respectively. (I’ve never been big in my work on the notion of “discovery.”) If you care about food in Los Angeles, you’ve likely heard of Kinn even if you haven’t been. Very few places about which I write can be considered “secrets” or “discoveries” for our readership. But I’ll keep it concise to say that I think very differently about reviews now. No brief words can articulate how radically the journalism landscape has changed since then. Yes, customers usually were paying full price from the moment a place opened, but the goal was to be fair about letting a business find its footing for a few weeks before pouncing. ![]() The rule - maybe unspoken, maybe gleaned at the conferences I regularly attended that were held by the now-defunct Association of Food Journalists, I can’t recall - was that you gave restaurants a month before reviewing them. cities, there were three major critics: one at the daily newspaper, one at the alternative newsweekly (that was me) and the third at the monthly city magazine. That went fast.) Back then, as in most U.S. But somewhere in the middle of it I flashed to the beginning of my critic career in Atlanta 21 years ago. Waiting to write a review until Kinn had settled more into its identity, and developed into the destination I now believe it to be, felt organic. You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times. I’m going to give it some time before I write about it.Ī year and a half later, The Times published my review this week. The meal finished and I thought: This place is enormously promising. The original includes vanilla ice cream, a strawberry gel center and a chocolate crunch exterior Kim’s homage-in-a-bowl was built around milk ice cream with a chunky strawberry puree, crumbled cookies and, teetering on top, thin shortbread cut out in the shape of a pig. ![]() Dessert was a clever course called Pig Ice Cream that drew from the flavors of a Korean frozen treat called Pig Bar. Become a subscriber.Īfterward there was mackerel showered with grated horseradish, which reminded me of the combination of gefilte fish and horseradish I’ve had at friends’ Passover seders dehydrated and marinated beets that mimicked galbi and a rice course that invoked ssambap but with wilted spinach rather than lettuce wraps. Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
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